Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Balığı...

Yayın Tarihi : 12/26/2020 12:00:00 AM

Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Baligi...

Ser Tabbah Veyis DURDU

Researcher of Ancient Anatolian Cuisine, History and Culture.

Ancient Anatolian Culinary arts I?nstructor

UNESCO Creative Cities Network Gastronomy Projects Consultant

Gastronomy Consultant, Executive Cook Chef

“Seyyah Evliya Çelebi, Hamsi kelimesinin etimolojisini (halk etimolojisi) yapar ve adi ‘elli gün süren kis’ anlamina gelen ‘Hamsîn’ kelimesine dayandirarak Hamsinin bu mevsimde ortaya çikmasini da delil olarak gösterir. “Kasim ay’indan itibaren Istanbul bogazinda ve Karadenizde Hamsi baligi sürüleri görülmeye basladi .

Dünya tarihinin en büyük gezgini ve en büyük seyahat kitabinin yazari olan Evliya Çelebi 25 Mart 1611 tarihinde Istanbul’da dogmustur. Yazarin babasi Osmanli sarayinin kuyumcubasisi Dervis Mehmed Zillî bey’dir .

Evliya Çelebi, babasinin Sarayda nüfuzlu kisilerden ve zamanin taninmis kisilerinden oldugu için o dönemin önemli akademisyenlerinden egitim almistir. Yasadigi dönemin üniversitesinde 7 yil egitim görmüstür. Bununla birlikte müzik egitimi ve Osmanli Sarayinda 2 yil özel egitim görmüstür.

Evliya Çelebi, iyi bir egitim almanin yani sira zamaninin geçerli yabanci dilleri olan Arapça ve Farsçayi ögrendikten sonra babasinin komsusu kuyumcu Simyon’dan Rumca ögrenmis, bir miktar da Latince dersi görmüstür.

Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Baligi...

Gezmeye düskünlügü dolayisiyla, gezmek için her sebepten yararlanmis ve bütün ömrü boyunca gezmistir. Seyahatname boyunca defalarca ifade ettigi gibi, Rum, Arap ve Acem’de, Isveç, Leh ve Çek’te, 7 iklim ve 18 kralligi 51 yil boyunca gezip dolasmistir. Bütün bu gezdigi cografyada 147 dilden kelimeler toplamistir.

17. yüzyilin önde gelen gezginlerinden ve az sayidaki 17. yüzyil nesir yazarlarindandir. Avrupa , Bati Asya ve Misir topraklarini gezmis, gördüklerini de Seyahatnâme adli 10 ciltlik eserinde toplamistir.

Seyahatname, ünlü tarihçi Joseph v. Hammer tarafindan ilim dünyasina tanitilincaya kadar kütüphanelerde sakli kalmistir.

Bu makalede, Evliya Çelebinin Karadeniz bölgesi , Trabzon sehri ziyareti sirasinda seyahatname sinde Hamsi baligi ve bölge insanlari arasindaki güçlü bagi ve bunlara ait bölge mutfak kültürü hakkinda aktardigi bilgileri sizlere sunuyorum .

Karadeniz denilince akla Hamsi, Hamsi denilince de Karadeniz insani ve onlarin kivrak zekâsi gelir. Hamsi konusunda belirtilmesi gereken en önemli husus ise Karadeniz insaninin nazarinda hamsinin bir balik türü olmadigi, hamsinin hamsi oldugudur, zira Karadeniz Bölgemizin küçük bir ilçesinde belediye tarafindan yapilan ve balik pazarina balik geldigini bildiren su anons ilginçtir:

-Balik pazarina hamsi ve balik gelmistir, tüm hemsehrilerimize duyuruyoruz .

Hamsinin Karadeniz insaninin hayati ve Türk mutfagindaki yerini vurgulamak için sözü on yedinci yüzyilin dünyaca ünlü seyyahina birakmak gerekecektir.

Evliya Çelebi’nin, Bursa’dan baslayip Trabzon’u da içine alarak Karadenizin dogusuna uzanan seyahatini anlattigi ikinci ciltte seyyahimiz Trabzon’u (Tarabefzûn) anlattigi kisimda o yörenin övülmeye deger yiyecek ve içeceklerini anlatirken baliklarina ve özellikle hamsiye isaret eder.

Evliya, yörede yakalanan baliklari saydiktan sonra ‘kendisine özel ifadesiyle ugruna mücadele edilen , hatta kavga edilen hamsiyi anlatmaya baslar. Devaminda ise hamsi kelimesinin etimolojisini (halk etimolojisi) yapar ve adi ‘ elli gün süren kis ’ anlamina gelen ‘HAMSIN’ kelimesine dayandirarak hamsinin bu mevsimde ortaya çikmasini da delil olarak gösterir.

Uzmanlari tarafindan ‘Kültür Hazinesi’ olarak vasiflandirilan Seyahatname’de Evliya Çelebi, gezip dolastigi bir yörenin sadece tarihi ve cografyasi hakkinda bilgi vermekle kalmayip o yörenin, bizzat sahit oldugu ve bazen de duydugu gelenek ve göreneklerini, beslenme sekillerini, yörede konusulan dilleri veya agizlari kendine has anlatim sekli ile okuyucusuna anlatir.

Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Baligi...

Zengin mutfak tarihimizde Hamsi ile yüklü kayiklar iskeleye geldiginde balik tellallarinin ‘Ey muhteremler, ey muhteremler. Hamsi limana gelmistir diyerek bagirdiklarini da Evliya’dan ögreniyoruz.

Devaminda gelen cümleler ise hamsinin Karadeniz insaninin hayatindaki yerini ortaya koyan ifadelerle süslü:

Bir kere balik tellallari hamsi geldigini duyurunca ve namaz kilan bir kisi o an namazi birakarak Hamsi almak için limana kosar. ‘Namazi sonra kilabilirim fakat Hapsi (Hamsi) bulunmaz.

Bu düsünce ile cami’de imam ve müezzin dahi namazi bozup ‘limana kosarak varirlar bir kasadolusu bu lezzetli Hamsi ver dedikleri anlatilir . Islemeli sandiklara hamsiyi koyarak salina salina yürüyerek baligin suyun akitarak yola devam ederlerken bazi kisiler baligin suyunun akdigina görünce , neden baligin suyunu bos yere akitirsin , baligin suyu ziyan olmasin baligin suyu ile pilav yapin diyerek bir birbirlerini uyarirlar .

Seyahatnâme’nin halk tarafindan begeniyle okunmasinda Evliya Çelebi’nin canli, bazen alayci ve yer yer argoya kaçan ifadelerinin payi büyüktür. Hamsinin de seyyahimizin hos üslubundan payini ziyadesiyle aldigi görülür. Evliya, burada Çiço Hüseyin olarak bilinen bir sahistan bahseder ve bu kisinin esiyle birlikteyken , balik tellalinin borusunu duymasi üzerine kemerini baglayip iskeleye gelip balik aldigini anlatir ve bu vakayi kendisinin görmedigini vurgular.

Devaminda da balik borusunun duyulmasiyla bes kisinin hamamdan bellerinde pestamalleriyle çiktiklarini ve baliklari pestamallerine doldurmalari neticesinde mahrem yerlerinin göründügünü anlatir. Evliya, bu ve benzeri latifelerin oldugunu söyledikten sonra bir ‘tekerleme’ye yer verir.

Trabzondur yerimiz

Para tutmaz elimi

Eger Hamsi baligi olmasaydi

Nasil olurdu bizim halimiz

Evliya Çelebi bu olaylari aktardirdaktan sonra Hamsinin özelliklerini siralamaya baslar. Iyi hamsinin bir karis kadar oldugunu söyler ve hamsiyi ince, morca ve parlakça ve yaglica bir balik olarak tarif eder. Sagliga faydasi konusunda ise onu tam bir afrodizyak olarak anlatir ve agri hastaligina yaklananlarin sifa buldugunu belirtir:

Hamsinin kendine has keskin kokusunu vurgulamak için Evliya Çelebi belki biraz alayla karisik onu yilan ve çiyanlardan korunmak için tütsü malzemesi olarak anlatir:

Evliya, hamsinin yüzlerce faydasi oldugunu, Trabzonlular tarafindan her biri kendine has lezzette kirk çesit yemeginin; çorbasinin, yahnisinin, kebabinin, börek ve baklavasinin türlü sekillerinin pisirildigini söyler ve nihayetinde hamsi yemegi tarifi verir:

Önemli bir bilgide söyledir: Osmanli Sultani Kanuni Sultan Süleyman Trabzon'da dogmustur ve hamsiye olan sevgisi Topkapi Sarayi'nda sergilenen hamsi motifinden anlasilabilir. Mutfak tarihimizde Osmanli Saray mutfaginin en sevilen lezzetlerinden biri olan hamsi ile pek çok yemek hazirlanmaktadir.

Evliya Çelebi 10 ciltlik seyahatnamesinde yüzlerce yemek isminden ve binlerce besin maddesi hakkinda bilgiler vermistir .

Evliya Çelebi'nin Seyahat Kitabina kaydedilen yiyecekler; 48O meyve, 303 tatli, 255 çorba, pirinç, kebap tursusu ve benzeri yemekler, 241 içecek, 232 et, sakatat, tavuk ve yumurta, 193 börek ve ekmek, 170 sebze, tahil ve baklagiller Toplam 2246 gida maddesi, 140 balik ve deniz ürünleri 105 süt ürünü, kalan 127 yag, baharat ve atistirmaliklar .

Fakat SEYAHATNAMESINDEKI TEK YEMEK TARIFI HAMSI PILAKIDIR...

Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Baligi...

Evliya Çelebi'nin seyahatnamesinde yer verdigi hâliyle, Mevlâna'nin eserlerinde ismi geçen sebzelerden olan kereviz ve pirasayla yapilan ORJINAL Hamsi pilaki tarifi ;

En Eski Balik Yemeklerinden Hamsi Pilaki Tarifi

Malzemeler

* 4 kisilik

* 1 kg hamsi ( kilçigi ayiklanmis)

* 1 adet kereviz

* 1 adet kuru sogan

* 2 adet pirasa

* ½ çay bardagi zeytinyagi

* 1 çay bardagi su

* 1 çay kasigi tarçin

* 1 çay kasigi tuz

Hazirlanmasi

Kerevizi, kuru sogani ve pirasayi dograyip bir kaba alin. Tuz ve tarçin ekleyerek karistirin. Karisimi tava seklinde bir tencereye koyup üzerine baliklari dizin. (Isterseniz çöp sise 10'ar adet dizerek siralayabilirsiniz.) Su ve zeytinyagi ilave ederek orta ateste 20-25 dakika pisirip servis edin. Dilerseniz maydanozla süsleyerek servis edebilirsiniz.

Evliya Çelebi’nin 17.yy’da kaleme aldigi eserinde bir balik üzerinde bu kadar durmasi ; isminin etimolojisini yapmas i, onunla ilgili birçok bilgiye ve hikayey’ye yer vermesi, faydalarini siralamasi ve en sonunda da yemek tarifi dahi vermesi Hamsinin Karadeniz insaninin hayatindaki yerini vurgulamak için olsa gerektir.

Evliya Çelebi Ve Hamsi Baligi...

Ser Tabbah Veyis DURDU

Researcher of Ancient Anatolian Cuisine, History and Culture.

Ancient Anatolian Culinary arts I?nstructor

UNESCO Creative Cities Network Gastronomy Projects Consultant

Gastronomy Consultant, Executive Cook Chef

“ Traveler Evliya Çelebi makes the etymology (folk etymology) of the word Anchovy and bases its name on the word 'Hamsîn' which means 'winter lasting fifty days' and shows the emergence of anchovy in this season as evidence. "Flocks of Anchovy fish started to be seen in the Istanbul Bosphorus and Black Sea since November. “

EVLIYA ÇELEBI and ANCHOVY fish

Evliya Çelebi, the greatest traveler in the history of the world and the author of the greatest travel book, was born on 25 March 1611 in Istanbul. The author's father is Dervis Mehmed Zilî Bey, the chief goldsmith of the Ottoman palace.

Evliya Çelebi was raised by prominent academics of that period, as his father was one of the most influential people of the palace and one of the well-known figures of the period. He studied at the university of the period he lived for 7 years. He studied music. In addition, he received special education in the Ottoman palace for 2 years.

In addition to receiving a good education, Evliya Çelebi learned Greek from his father's neighbor, the jeweler Simyon, after learning the alternative foreign languages of his time, Arabic and Persian, and took some Latin lessons.

Because of his fondness for traveling, he used every reason to travel and traveled all his life. As he has repeatedly stated throughout his travel book, he traveled in Greek, Arab and Persian, Sweden, Polish and Czech, 7 climates and 18 kingdoms for 51 years. He collected words from 147 languages in all this geography he visited. He was one of the leading travelers of the 17th century, and one of the few prose writers in the 17th century. He toured Europe, Western Asia and Egypt and collected what he saw in his 10-volume Seyahatname.

Seyahatname, famous historian Joseph v. It remained in libraries until it was introduced to the scientific world by Joseph v. Hammer.

In this article, I present you the information Evliya Çelebi gave about the Black Sea region, the strong bond between the anchovy and the local people during his visit to Trabzon, and the original Anchovy Pilaki recipe made from anchovy.

When the Black Sea is mentioned, the people of the Black Sea and their fast intelligence come to mind. The most important point to be mentioned about anchovy is that it is not a type of fish in the eyes of the Black Sea people, but anchovy, because the following announcement made by the municipality in a small district of our Black Sea Region is that the anchovy is coming to the fish market:

• Anchovies and fish came to the fish market, we announce it to all our citizens.

In order to emphasize the place of anchovy in the life of the Black Sea people and in Turkish cuisine, it will be necessary to leave the word to the world-famous traveler of the seventeenth century.

In the second volume, where Evliya Çelebi describes his journey starting from Bursa and extending to the east of the Black Sea, including Trabzon, our traveler describes Trabzon (Tarabefzn) in the part where he describes the praiseworthy foods and drinks of that region and points to fish and especially Anchovy.

After counting the fish caught in the region, Evliya Çelebi begins to describe the Anchovy that the people of the region fought for with a special expression.

• Evliya Çelebi makes the etymology (folk etymology) of the word Anchovy and bases its name on the word 'Hamsîn' which means 'winter lasting fifty days' and shows the emergence of anchovy in this season as evidence.

We learn from Evliya that when the boats loaded with anchovy came to the pier, the municipality employees shouted that he anchovy was coming to the port and announced to the public. The following sentences are decorated with expressions that reveal the importance of anchovy in the life of the Black Sea people:

When the municipality officials heard that the anchovy was coming to the port and a person performing a prayer, they stopped praying and rushed to the port to buy anchovies. He states that I can pray later, but if I am late, he will not be able to find the anchovy.

• With the same thought, even the imams and muezzins in the mosque say to stop praying and run to the harbor and come to the port and give the safe of this delicious anchovy. Some of them put the anchovy on the embroidered crates and warned each other when they saw the water flowing, saying, "Do not pour the water of the fish, make pilaf with the fish's water."

Evliya Çelebi's lively, sometimes sarcastic and sometimes slang expressions have a large share in the popular reading of Seyahatname. It is seen that the anchovies also took its share of the pleasant style of our traveler. Evliya tells about a person known as Çiço Hüseyin here and when this person was with his wife, he tied his belt and came to the pier when he heard the horn of the fish clerk, and he emphasizes that he did not see this case.

He also tells that when the fish pipe was heard, five people came out of the bath with their loincloths on their waist and that their special places emerged as a result of the filling of fish in their loincloths. After saying that there are these and similar funny situations, Evliya gives place to rhyme.

Our place is Trabzon,

we don't save money,

what would we do without anchovies

After Evliya Çelebi narrates these events, he begins to list the characteristics of anchovy. He says that good anchovy is about an inch long and describes it as a thin, purple and shiny and oily fish. In terms of its health benefits, he describes it as a complete aphrodisiac and states that those suffering from pain are healed:

Evliya Çelebi explains that anchovy can be used as an incense material to protect against snakes and centipedes to emphasize its pungent smell:

Evliya says that anchovy has hundreds of benefits, and that forty kinds of food, each with its own unique flavor, by the people of Trabzon; He says that his soup, stew, kebab, börek and baklava are cooked in various forms and finally gives the recipe for anchovy dish: Evliya Çelebi gave information about hundreds of food names and thousands of food items in his 10-volume travel book.

Foods recorded in Evliya Çelebi's Travel Book; 48O fruits, 303 desserts, 255 soups, rice, kebab pickles and similar dishes, 241 beverages, 232 meat, offal, chicken and eggs, 193 pastries and bread, 170 vegetables, grains and legumes Total 2246 food items, 14O fish and seafood products 105 dairy products, the remaining 127 fats, spices and snacks.

However, he wrote HAMSI PILAKI as ONE RECIPE in his 10-volume travel book. ORIGINAL Anchovy pilaki recipe made with celery and leeks, which are among the vegetables mentioned in Mevlana's works, as included in Evliya Çelebi's travel book;

An important information is as follows: The Ottoman Sultan, Süleyman the Magnificent, was born in Trabzon and his love for anchovy can be understood from the anchovy motif on display at the Topkapi Palace. Many dishes are prepared with anchovy, one of the most popular flavors of Ottoman cuisine.

ANCHOVY PILAKI

for 4 people

ingredients

* 1 kg anchovy (deboned)

* 1 celery

* 1 onion

* 2 leeks

* ½ tea glass of olive oil

* 1 tea glass of water

* 1 teaspoon of cinnamon

* 1 teaspoon of salt

Preparation

Chop the celery, onion and leek and put in a bowl. Add salt and cinnamon and mix. Put the mixture in a saucepan and line the fish on it. (If you want, you can arrange the garbage bottle by arranging 10 pieces.) Add water and olive oil and cook for 20-25 minutes over medium heat and serve. You can serve it by decorating it with parsley if you wish.

Evliya Çelebi's work on a fish in the 17th century; The fact that he makes the etymology of his name, includes many information and stories about him, enumerates the benefits and finally even gives a recipe must be to emphasize the place of anchovy in the life of the Black Sea people.